The small town of Hajo, 32km northeast of Guwahati, has a special place in Assamese culture, having been sacred even before the Ahom arrived as Buddhists, let alone after conversion to Hinduism. Now holy to Buddhists, Hindus and Muslims, it attracts pilgrims from all the faiths, in apparent harmony. A long palm tree-lined stone staircase climbs a hill to the small Hindu temple of Haigriba Madhab where, some say, the Buddha gained nirvana. Praying at the mosque of Pao Mecca nearby grants Muslims a quarter (pao) of the spiritual benefit of Mecca.