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HOLY CITIES
Amarnath

Situated in a narrow gorge at the farther end of Lidder valley, Amarnath stands at 3,888 m and is 44.8 km from Pahalgam and 141 km from Srinagar. Though the original pilgrimage subscribes that the yatra be undertaken from Srinagar, the more common practise is to begin journey at Pahalgam, and cover the distance to Amarnath and back in five days. Pahalgam is 96 km from Srinagar.

Legend has it that Shiva recounted to Parvati the secret of creation in a cave in Amarnath. Unknown to them, a pair of mating doves eavesdropped on this conversation and having learned the secret, are reborn again and again, and have made the cave their eternal abode. Many pilgrims report seeing the dove-pair when they trek the arduous route to pay obeisance before the ice-lingam (the phallic symbol of Shiva).

The trek to Amarnath, in the month of Shravan (July-August) has the devout flock to this incredible shrine, where the image of Shiva, in the form of a lingam, is formed naturally of an ice-stalagmite, and which waxes and wanes with the moon. By its side are, fascinatingly, two more ice-lingams, that of Parvati, and of their son, Ganesha.

The trek from Pahalgam to Amarnath cave is on an ancient peregrine route. The 45-km distance is covered in four days, with night halts at Chandanwari, Sheshnag (Wawjan) and Panchtarni. The distance from Pahalgam to Chandanwari (12.8 km) is covered in about five to six hours, and the trail runs along the Lidder river. Pilgrims camp here on the first night out. A major attraction here is a bridge covered, year round, with ice even though the surroundings are free from it.The next day's trek, of 13 km, is through spectacular, primeval countryside, and the main centre of attraction is Sheshnag, a mountain which derives its name from its seven peaks, resembling the heads of a mythical snake. The journey to Sheshnag follows steep inclines up the right bank of a cascading stream and wild scenery untouched by civilization. The second night's camp at Wawjan overlooks the deep blue waters of Sheshnag lake, and glaciers beyond it.

The third day's 13 km trek steadily gains height, winding up across Mahagunas Pass at 4,600 m and then descending to the meadow-lands of Panchtarni, the last camp enroute to the holy cave.From Panchtarni to Amarnath is only 6 km, but an early morning's start is recommended for there is a long queue awaiting entrance to the cave. The same day, following darshan, devotees can return to Panchtarni in time for lunch, and continue to Wawjan to spend the fourth night out; or continue further to Zojibal, returning to Pahalgam on the fifth day.

The devotees sing bhajans, chant incantations, and priests petform aarti and puja, invoking the blessings of Shiva. After traveling on foot or horse on one of the most enchanting and enthralling routes in the world, which itself transmits a feeling of being "upward and divine," the yatri sees the "ice-lingam" in all its shining glory and greatness, and experiences the impact of an invisible, yet all-pervading, an incomprehensible, yet all-conveying, force of "what was, is and will be." A strange sense of fulfillment seizes the yatris, and all fatigue is forgotten. Even in the temperature touching zero degrees Celsius, the yatris are driven by their faith to take bath in the almost freezing rivulet of Amravati.

The unique Yatra satisfies the individual's urge to take his soul to soaring heights, to experience spiritual passions of the highest order and see Mahadeva in His greatest image and in His finest abode.

Places to Stay
Hotel Kolahoi Kabin.
Yog Niketan Ashram.
The Phalgam Hotel.


Getting There
Local buses from Srinagar to Pahalgam, and tour buses operated by J&KRTC.

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