Matheran is the nearest hill station to Bombay. The name means Jungle Topped or Wooded Head, which is just what it is - an undulating hilltop cloaked in shady trees. It became a popular hill station during the days of the Raj as the abundant shade and altitude (800 meters) made it slightly cooler than the capital.

Quite uniquely, Matheran is free of all forms of motor vehicles, making it an unbelievably tranquil respite. It is ringed by many km of walking tracks, which lead to lookouts that drop sheer to the plains. On a clear day the views are fantastic and it's possible to see, and supposedly even hear, Bombay from Porcupine or Louisa Point.

In April and May and the Diwali Festival in November you won't find accommodation unless you've made a reservation well in advance.During the monsoon season Matheran virtually closes up. Very few hotels and restaurants remain open, and the dirt walking trails and roads become very muddy. On the plus side, there are very few people around, and the hotels that remain open reduce their tariff's significantly.

Getting to Matheran is half the fun; from Neral Junction you take a tiny narrow-gauge toy train up the 21-km route to the hill station. It's two-hour ascent as the train winds its way up the steep slopes and, at one point, passes through 'one kiss tunnel'. Alternatively, you can take a taxi or minibus from Neral.However, as cars are prohibited in Matheran, you will then face a 40-minute walk into Matheran or you'll have to hire a horse or cycle-rickshaw. Only the toy train goes right into the centre of town.

Porcupine Point is a good place for catching the sunset, but Panorama Point, at the extreme north, is said to have the finest views. The western side, from Porcupine to Louisa Point, is known as Cathedral Rocks, and Neral can be seen far below, straddling the central railway line. At the south, near One Tree Hill, is a trail down to the valley below known as Shivaji's Ladder, so called because the Maratha leader is said to have used it.